Lying on a surface area of 1 000 km2 of imposing hills in the south-east of Rwanda, the Nyungwe National Park is the greatest reserve and one of the oldest high altitude forests in the Eastern Africa. It existed before the last glaciation. Being unique as a result of the diversity of its flora, the forest is a home to 200 different tree species and a myriad of flowers, including the giant lobelia and a number of colored orchids.
“The mountains are Africa’s Galapagos Islands – islands enriched by golden monkeys, gorillas and iridescent sunbirds, by giant lobelias, everlasting flowers, Ruwenzori turacos and all the questions they raise. They deserve greater recognition, protection and study than they have received so far.”
– Jonathan Kingdom, renowned biologist, in his award-winning book Island Africa.
Nyungwe National Park, extending for almost 1000km2 across the majestic hills of southeast Rwanda, is the largest ‘island’ of montane forest remaining in East or Central Africa: a rich and ancient centre unparalleled biodiversity and natural wonders. Transected by the surfaced road between Butare and Lake Kivu, Nyungwe and its array of forest inhabitants are also uniquely accessible to casual visitors.
Approach Nyungwe along the main road, and you will initially be struck by the forest’s glorious sense of expansiveness; a lush verdant swathe across the mighty hills that roll like gigantic green waves towards the distant horizon. Paradoxically, when you follow the walking trails within Nyungwe, it is the intimacy of the rainforest that most impress: the closed canopy overhead, the towering trees and delicate ferns that line the steep gorges, the mysterious calling and rustling of birds and monkeys hidden deep in the greenery.
Recently accorded national park status, Nyungwe is rightly celebrated for the rich variety of its flora and fauna. At least 200 different types of tree are found in the forest, along with hundreds of different flowering plants, including wild begonia, more than 100 species of orchid, and sensational giant lobelias. Of the large mammals, primates are the most visible, with 13-recorded species representing 25% of the African primate checklist. Of particular interest is the Angola colobus – delightfully acrobatic arboreal monkeys that move in troops of several hundred – and an estimated 500 chimpanzee, often seen from the forest trails during the rainy season. Other primates likely to be encountered over the course of a visit are L’Hoest’s monkey, vervet monkey, olive baboon, grey-cheeked mangabey, and red-tailed monkey.
Things to See
Far from being the sweaty tropical jungle one might expect, Nyungwe lies at elevation of between 1600m and 2950m, and enjoys an agreeable cool climate. An extensive network of well-maintained forest trails lead to various waterfalls and viewing points. A comfortably rustic rest house and perfectly situated campsite lie alongside the main road, and the reserve can be readily visited as a day trip from smarter hotels in the towns of Butare and Cyangugu. Nyungwe does, however, deserve more time: anybody who wants to track chimps and see several varieties of smaller primate will need two days there – and dedicated birdwatchers might never want to leave this magical forest!
Nyungwe is especially renowned for its primates: 13 species on the whole, including the closest ancestors of the human being, chimpanzees, and the magnificent kingfishers as well as the Angolan colobus monkeys, which are agile acrobats. Being the most significant ornithological site of Rwanda, Nyungwe is home to 300 bird species, of which 24 are endemic in some high altitude forests of the Rift.
Home to more than 275 bird species, Nyungwe is the most important birding site in Rwanda. Most alluring to ornithologists are 24 Albertine Rift endemics – birds whose range is restricted to a handful of montane forests between southern Uganda and northern Burundi – a list that includes the spectacular Ruwenzori turaco, secretive red-chested alethe, and several iridescent sunbirds. Equally remarkable are the perpetually honking giant hornbills that crash through the forest canopy, and the stunning great blue turaco – an outlandishly blue, red and green bird most often seen gliding from one tree to the next in procession.
The most beautiful bird in Nyungwe Forest is the big blue turaco – a bird that has a strange blue color, with red and green feathers, which flutters from tree to tree in psychedelic processions. An important network of well maintained pedestrian tracks takes you through the forest to water falls and panoramic sights. A comfortable and rustic inn and a perfectly well-located camp are located on the main road. You can visit the reserve in one day from Butare or Cyangugu. Nonetheless, Nyungwe requires more time. Anyone wishing to see the chimpanzees or other smaller primate species on the spot will need at least two days – and lovers of ornithology may never want to leave.
Forest and Canopy walks: Visitors interested in taking walks in Nyungwe forest have two alternatives, a canopy or low ground forest walk. Nyungwe National Park is special because it is the only national park where nature lovers can go for a true canopy walk. The canopy walk in Nyungwe forest is the best in East Africa. The canopy walk starts at the Uwinka Visitors Center and goes through a hanging platform that is about 45 meters above the ground. From these heights, visitors get spectacular views of the rain-forest, animals and birds.
There is no doubt that the canopy walk is amazing and adventurous, but it can be scary for those with a fear of heights. Those who fear heights should instead go for the Forest walks. There are several hiking trails which go up to the forest interior. The trails are painted in different colors allowing visitors to spot the forest animals and birds in the interior. Some of the trails require 8 hours to complete.
The Igishigishigi Trail is the shortest while the Bigugu Trail leading up to the mountain is the most difficult taking at least 5 hours to complete. The water fall trail is designed to lead visitors to the beautiful waterfalls of the forest. Nature lovers with time to spare usually take time to complete each trail at a time. By the end of their time in the forest, they would have discovered and explored everything there is to know about this old forest including the primates.